Femme Fatale Auction And Boutique


Sizing Information and Charts for Vintage and Newer Lingerie.

We have tried to provide as much information for you to make sure the item you purchase fits you correctly. Please read carefully.


Lingerie Size Chart

Fitting Tips for Girdles and Corsets

"How do I chose the right size?"

Luckily, lingerie sizing virtually did not changed during the 20th century. Because lingerie sizes have primarily been measured in inches, it has been impossible to implement vanity sizing as was done with ready to wear clothing. The only exception is with panties and drawers, early drawers were numbered 17, 18, 19, etc. In the 1930's a new size scheme was implemented starting with 3, 4, 5, and on up.

Generally, open bottom and panty girdles as well as corsets are measured in waist sizes. This includes non stretch open bottom girdles.

All the above styles are selected according to waist size. From left to right, 1) all stretch pull on open bottom 2) combination corset girdle with inserted stretch panels, front lacing and side zip 3) non stretch zip girdle with stretch satin side inserts 4) high waist front lacing non stretch girdle. This last example is considered a girdle due to the area which it targets, namely the hips, rather than the waist and bust as would an older traditional corset.

In the case of corset girdles number 2 and 4 above, there is a good deal of room for approximation. If tagged a size 28, either of these items could easily fit a waist of up to 31 inches. In the case of example 2, because of the addition of stretch panels and the range for the lacings, a garment of this type would have a greater than average fit range. While number 4 is an all non stretch garment very similar to a traditional corset, my recommendation for an garment of this design is to select 1 size smaller than your natural waist size. If you have a 32 inch waist, select size 30 for the best fit. You will achieve a good amount of compression, excellent contour and the front panels will fit well and close together. Back lacing non stretch girdles can be worn slightly smaller, but there is nothing less attractive than a poorly fitted front lacing girdle.

Standard Open Bottom & Panty Girdle Sizing

  • 26 Small
  • 28 Medium
  • 30 Large
  • 32 Extra Large

The range of sizes went up to 52 inches with some manufacturers. When selecting a girdle, always chose the size closest to your actual natural waist measurement. If you are between sizes, make your selection based on your personal preference for fit. Do you like a lot of compression, or do you prefer a greater range of motion?

"What about corsets?"

Corsets are designed to reduce the waistline and sometimes lift the bust, while girdles are more about firming things up and preventing any unsightly jiggling of the hips and buttocks! Corsets should be selected up to 4 inches smaller than your natural waistline. A first time corset wearer can expect a 1 to 2 inch reduction. Make sure the corset you buy is sturdy! Placing that amount of strain and compression on a vintage garment can easily result in broken laces, stitching, and ripped fabric, so be sure to ask your seller about the condition of the seams, the strength of the fabric and the overall sturdiness of the garment. Many wonderful vintage corsets still exist in wearable condition. Others will only be suitable for outerwear or display.

"What About All In One Girdles?"

All in one girdles wheather open bottom, brief, or long leg style will always be tagged according to the bra size. They are generally cut to fit a modified hourglass figure, with the waist being 8 to 10 inches smaller than the bust, and the hip accommodating 8 to 14 inches larger than the waist. Stretch all in one girdles are extremely forgiving and as long as you select the proper bust size there is a lot of leeway with regard to fitting the waist and hip.

Fitting and Measuring Guide

If you don’t find it easy getting the correct measurement on your own (the tape always moves when you try to move your boobs to see the measurement). Then enlist in the help of a friend or partner to assist you. They usually have a better view than you do. Then follow the measuring guide below.

Under bust measurement (A)


Wearing your most comfortable, non-padded bra, and using a dressmaker’s tape measure (not one that you found in your tool box), measure directly underneath the bust, around the rib cage. Keep the tape measure firm around your body but not too tight.

Take the measurement and note it down.

E.g. 36 inches

If your measurement is an even number in inches add 4 inches

Eg. 36 inches + 4 inches = 40 inches

If your measurement is an odd number in inches add 5 inches

Eg. 35 inches + 5 inches = 40 inches

This is your bra back measurement

Full bust measurement (B)


Gently measure around the fullest part of the bust making sure that the tape is level across the back. Take the measurement and note it down. Eg 43 inches.

The difference between your back size and your full bust measurement is your cup size.

Eg Underbust measurement size 36 inches = 40 bra size

Full bust measurement 43 inches = cup size D

Your correct bra size would be 40 D.

Use the following size chart to find your size.

Size chart
a) Back Measurement

Underbust Measurement

cm

63-67

68-72

73-77

78-82

83-87

88-92

93-97

98-102

103-107

-

inches

25-26

27-28

29-30

31-32

33-34

35-36

37-38

39-40

41-42

Bra Band size

-

30

32

34

36

38

40

42

44

46

b) Cup size / Over bust

Difference
cm
- 2.5
0
2.5
5
7.5
10
12.5
15
17.5
20
22.5
25
27.5
30
32.5
-
inches
-1
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
Cup size
-
AA
A
B
C
D
DD
E
F
FF
G
GG
H
HH
J
JJ

Finding the right brief size
Manufacturers size briefs in several ways. These relate approximately as follows:

Dress size
10
12
14
16
18
Brief, Suspender etc.
S
M
L
XL
2XL

Every womans figure is unique and sizes may vary from one manufacturer to another.


FITTING GUIDE

The measurement’s and fitting size chart is only a guide and as all bodies are unique, the next best way of ensuring the correct fit is by the eye. So when trying on the new bra check the following: -

  • The bra should be fitted on the loosest fitting and should feel firm and comfortable. It should be level around the back.

    If it rides up around the back, then it is too big.

    Try a back size smaller. (In many instances, this will mean increasing the cup size as a smaller back size means the cup size will not be as generous).

  • The weight of the breasts is supported by the back of the bra and not by the bra’s straps so it is most important that the back size is correct. Once you are happy with the fit you may tighten the bra to the middle eyes for normal wear.

    As time goes by, after washing your underwear, tighten the back as necessary.

  • Adjust the shoulder straps accordingly.

    They should not be too tight. Digging into your shoulders means that the cup size is too small and the straps are doing too much work. Choose a bigger cup size to correct.

    It could be that the back size is too big and the straps have been over-tighted. If this is the case choose a smaller back size to correct.

  • Breasts should be well contained within the cup and should not feel tight or bulging over the breast or underarm edges. This means that the cup size is too small. Try a cup size bigger.

    Should there be excess space in the bra or the cups of the bra are wrinkling, this means that the cup is too large. Try a cup size smaller.

  • If you are wearing an underwired bra the wires should fit snugly against your rib cage under the breast and should not be sitting on any of the delicate breast tissue.

    There should be no gap between the your rib cage and the bra. If the bra sits away form your body then try a bigger cup size.

    In all cases ensure that the bra back sits level around the body and is firm but comfortable.

 

 

 

AN ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO LINGERIE TERMS

PLUS TRANSLATIONS

   
 

Applique. A decoration or ornament made by cutting pieces of one material and applying them to the surface of another.

   
 
Baby Doll. Baby dolls are made of sheer fabric, and consist of shaped bra cups with an attached loose-fitting skirt that comes down to anywhere between the navel and the hips. They usually have matching panties. Named after the nightwear worn by Carol Baker in the ground breaking 1956 film directed by Elia Kazan of the same name.
   
 

Back Seams. Back seams are the seams in the back of nylon stockings or pantyhose that were the standard when stockings were invented in 1940. Back-seamed stockings are a very provocative style that's returning to fashion.

   
 

Basque. Styles include merry widow, corselette, torsolette, and waist cincher. Combines the bra and garter belt, and may provide shaping of the waist. Some styles may be designed to be worn visibly.

   
 

Bodice. The fitted part of a dress that extends from the waist to the shoulder; a woman's laced outer garment, worn over a blouse.

   
 

Boning. Strips of plastic or other stiff material sewn into undergarments to provide extra support and shape. Actual bones were originally used - thus the name.

   
 
Boy leg brief. Reminiscent of hot pants. The waistline sits low on the hips and the leg extends to the top of the thigh. Back coverage is full. Great to wear under short skirts and low-slung pants. BRALETTE A bra-like top that lacks the usual supportive features (such as underwire) of a real bra. Best for the smaller-chested - or paired with a boy brief for bed. BRAZILIAN BACK A panty style that covers more of the cheeks than a thong, but less that a traditional full-back panty. Think of a Brazilian-style bikini revealing bronzed beach buns for a good idea of the cut.
   
 

Brocatelle. A heavy figured cloth in which the pattern is created by warp threads in a satin weave.

   

 

 

 

Bra types. Demi Cup (Also: Balconette or Shelf Bra) A bra with a contoured underwire design, with a large portion of the upper half of the cup cut away to expose the top portion of the breasts. Use with low necklines. Half bra. Covers only the under side of the breasts usually exposing the nipples. Push-up bra. Lifts the breasts to create cleveage. Underwire bra. Metalwires in the lower edges of the bra cups support the bust. See also Wings and Plunge.

 

TRANSLATIONS

English: - Bra • French: - Soutien-gorge • German: - Bustenhalter • Italian: - Reggiseno •

Spanish: - Sujetador

   
 

Burn-out. A brocade-like pattern effect created on the fabric through the application of a chemical, instead of color, during the burn-out printing process. (Sulfuric acid, mixed into a colorless print paste, is the most common chemical used.) Many simulated eyelet effects can be created using this method. In these instances, the chemical destroys the fiber and creates a hole in the fabric in a specific design, where the chemical comes in contact with the fabric. The fabric is then over-printed with a simulated embroidery stitch to create the eyelet effect. However, burn-out effects can also be created on velvets made of blended fibers, in which the ground fabric is of one fiber like a polyester, and the pile may be of a cellulosic fiber like rayon or acetate. In this case, when the chemical is printed in a certain pattern, it destroys the pile in those areas where the chemical comes in contact with the fabric, but leave the ground fabric unharmed.

   
 

Bustiers. The bustier is a bra that extends to the waist. Bustiers come in various types, including brasselettes, bustier tops, and camisettes. A bustier provides bust support, and may also smooth or shape the waist. Often worn with garters and stockings. Bustiers gained in popularity in the 1980s as outwear due to a popular female singer.

TRANSLATIONS

English: - Bustier/Waspie//Corset/Basque • French: - Plus bustier • German: - Bustier • Italian: - Piu bustier • Spanish: - Mas bustier

   
 

Cami. A camisole worn as an undergarment.

   
 

Camisole. A short negligee; a woman's sleeveless undergarment, now usually worn under a sheer blouse.

   
 

Catsuit. A full-body stocking, generally made of stretch material. Made popular in the 1960's by Diana Rigg in The Avengers Television series. Other types of catsuits include bodystockings and suspender catsuits.

   
 

Chemise. The name given to the first undergarment ever worn by women. Originally designed to protect the skin from rough garments, it was later used for sleepwear. It is a loose-hanging short slip that has no waistline still worn for bedtime or as a lining under clothes. Nowadays, this item has come out of hiding and is often worn as an evening or summer dress - or over pants for a funkier look. Chemises are especially popular as gifts since they are easy to fit and flattering to most figures.

   
 

Chantilly lace. Chantilly lace is a floral pattern, sewn with thread and ribbon, on a net background. It's named after the northern French town of Chantilly, which was famous for lace and porcelain.

   
 

Charmeuse. A satin finished silk fabric.

   
 

Chenille. (fabri). Fuzzy fabric, with "caterpillar" appearance. French in origin.

   
 

Chiffon. A fabric of silk or rayon.

   
 

Cookie. The removable pad in certain types of bras.

   
 

Corselet. (Also: Corselette) An undergarment that combines a girdle with a bra. Similar to a traditional corset.

   
 

Crushed Velvet. Velvet with a crinkly look; not shiny.

   
 

Denier. A unit or fineness for rayon, nylon, and silk fibers, based on a standard mass per length.

   
 

Embroidery. Ornamentation on fabric with needlework.

   
 

 

Faille. A glossy, soft, finely-ribbed silk-like woven fabric made from cotton, silk, or manufactured fibers.

 

   
 

Faux Leather. Fake leather.

   
 

Flocked. Design or pattern on fabric that is not intricately part of the fabric.

   
 

French knickers. Long version of Boy pants usually made of silk.

   
 

Garter Belt. Used with stockings (not panty hose!), is worn around the waist and clipped to the top of stockings to keep the stockings in place. should be matched in color and design with stockings and panties. Often, garters are attached to bustiers and various sets.

   
 

Georgette. Sheer crepe woven from hard twisted yarns/threads to produce a dull yet delicate pebbly surface. The pebbly weave of georgette gives transparency but has slightly more coverage than chiffon.

   
 

Gown. Gown types include baby dolls, negligees, nightdresses, and peignoirs. Used for night or lounge wear. Often made of silk, cotton or polyester, and sometimes includes adjustable shoulder straps. Sometimes worn with matching outer robe.

   
 

Guipure. A lace construction produced by embroidering a thread pattern onto a fabric, the fabric being subsequently removed by chemical or other means to leave an open work lace.

   
 

Gusset. The triangle or rectangle-shaped lining often made of cotton in the crotch area of a panty.

   
 

Habotai. A lightweight silk fabric commonly used for linings, hangings and underwear.

   
 

Halter. A bodice for women that ties behind the neck and across the back, leaving the arms, shoulders, and back bare.

   
 

Hosier Types. Control top pantyhose. Provides shaping support in the panty section. Fishnet hose. Generally a diamond pattern in a loose weave. French or lace pantyhose. A lace panty is sewn into the pantyhose. Lace top stockings. A lace band at the top of the stocking replaces the plain welt. Suspender hose. A section of the hose is cut out to simulate the look of stockings and a garter belt, and often worn with panties. Stay Ups.Stockings that have a rubber grip inside to stop them from slipping down the leg.

 

TRANSLATIONS

English: - Stockings • French: - Bas • German: - Strumpfe • Italian: - Calze •

Spanish: - Medias

   
 

Jacquard. A fabric with an intricately woven pattern

   
 

Jaspe. A fabric characterised by a subtle striped effect.

   
 

Keyhole. (neckline). Material forms a high neckline with a teardrop hole in the front, usually very near the top of the fabric.

   
 

Kimono. A loose robe worn chiefly by women.

   
 

Lurex. A trademark used for a yarn made of plastic-coated aluminum filaments.

   
 

Lycra. A trademark used for a brand of spandex.

   
 

Marabou. The down from the tail of the marabou that is soft, fluffy and feathery used for trimming.

   
 

Mary Quant. Inventor of womens tights.

   
 

Negligee. A nightgown or undergarment made of thin, usually sheer fabric.

   
 

 

Panties: - Bikini. Top of the panty is below the waist. Briefs. Top of the panty is at the waist. French-cut. leg opening extends higher than normal. G-String. The rear panel is very small though usually larger than a thong. String bikini. A narrow strip of fabric or elastic joints the front and rear panels. Tap pants. Shorts with loose fitting legs, generally rides higher on the sides. Thong. Minimal coverage on the rear, usually a string or a narrow band of material or elastic. Tights. Panties made of stretch fabric, may include attached leg. Thong boy. A panty style which is a cross betweenĘ a thong and a boy brief, it offers more - but not total - coverage in the back and along the sides, while the cheeks peek through the bottom. A very flattering variation of the traditional thong style.

 

TRANSLATIONS

English: - Panties (Knickers - UK) • French: - Culottese • German: - Schlupfer • Italian: - Mutandine

Spanish: - Bragas

   
 

Peau de Soie. A heavy twill weave drapeable satin fabric, made of silk or a manufactured fiber, and used for bridal gowns and evening wear.

   
 

Peignoir. Informal dress.

   
 

Plunge. (Also: Decollete) A style of bra that is cut super-low to give cleavage a boost.

   
 

Polyester. (fiber/fabric). Ability to stretch and resist wrinkling make polyester a popular fabric for lingerie. traps heat against body, but is used in weaver that allow air to circulate. Synthetic.

   
 

Pongee. A lustrous lightweight plain-weave fabric, originally woven in silk.

   
 

Princess line. A dress, coat, or blouse made of several pieces contoured to fit the body.

   
 
Provencal. Small stylised florals typical of the Provence region of France.
   
 

Rayon. (fiber/fabric). A synthetic silk-like fabric, but less expensive than silk. Does not trap heat against the body, and absorbs moisture.

   
 

 

Rue Chazelle. A lingerie company considered by some as best source of high end designer lingerie.Rue Chazelle is named after a street in Paris that once was home to the oldest and most exclusive Partouse in Paris.

   
 

Satin. A Smooth fabric, such as silk or rayon, woven with a glossy face and a dull back.

   
 

Scallop. Border is curved on the fabric or lace. Ornamental.

   
 

Scoop. (neckline). U-shaped curve at the neckline. May be a variety of sizes or depths.

   
 

Shirring. Material is gathered into lines, for decorative effect.

   
 

Slip. An undergarment usually of nylon or silk and decorated with lace worn under a dress or skirt. Half slips are elasticized waste fitting short slips worn under a skirt. Slips went out of fashion in the Sixties but are now back in fashion as erotic nighwear and fine examples such as those made by Janet Reger fetch premium prices.

   
 

Spandex. A synthetic fiber or fabric made from a polymer containing polyurethane.

   
 

Stretch lace. Lace which stretches for better fit and more comfort.

   
 

Surplice. A long, loose, flowing garment, such as a robe or nightgown.

   
 

Sweetheart. (neckline). A series of side and lower front curves that meet in center.

   
 
Teddy. Combination of camisole and panties in one piece. May be fitted to the body, or loose. Variety of styles include body briefer: a fitted teddy, may also provide smoothing and shaping or teddiette: teddy with detachable garters. Worn either under clothing or as sleepwear.
   
 

Tricot and Satin Tricot. (fabric). A soft fabric that is resistant to runs. Often porous knit. Satin tricot has a lustrous finish.

   
 

Velvet. A soft fabric, such as silk, rayon, or nylon having a smooth, dense pile and plain underside: something suggesting the smooth surface of velvet.

   
 

Wide-away. A style of bra with straps that are cut extra-wide to accommodate certain dress styles.

   
 

Wings. Bra side panels usually found in larger cup sizes that provide support in the side bust area and under the arms.

   
         
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